Although Chinatown is a farily large area in downtown Kuala Lumpur, the hive of activity in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown is around the Petaling Street (Jalan Petaling) area. Petaling Street now spots the symbolic red arch at the main entrance that typifies Chinatowns around the globe. A canopy was built so that it would be a comfortable place to walk, rain or shine. Since there is a large Malaysian Chinese population in Malaysia, Petaling Street is seldom referred to as Chinatown by the locals.
Getting there and away
Chinatown is just around the corner of the Pasar Seni LRT station. If you are taking a taxi, tell them to take you to Petaling Street. Taxis may drop you at the other end of Petaling Street where there is no arch. To be sure that you are at the right place, look for the road sign that says “Jalan Petaling”. The street is covered by a canopy and impassable by traffic. Taxi fares should be metered.
Getting away by Taxi can be a nightmare. The arch is a popular spot for taxi touts especially at night. Taxis are often parked hazardously causing congestion along the main road. The government seems powerless to control these activities. I would suggest walking away if it is not metered and take the LRT to a place that is close to your destination and take a taxi from there.
If you plan to drive, parking space is very limited. There are a few parking lots along Jalan Sultan. Or park at the Central Market.
When to go
Chinatown is open every day, all round the clock. A good time to enjoy the festive mood are days leading to Chinese New Year and a few days after.
A good time to go would be in the late morning for a walking tour or just after sunset for bargains on any day.
What to do (and not to do)
If you plan to get a bargain, try bargaining first thing in the morning. There is a Chinese belief that the first sale of the day is the most important sale. It is an indication of how well the day will turn out for them. They often try very hard to offer a good price to close the sale, even if it is a loss. But if you want to see the full glory of Chinatown; just after sunset is the best time. If you plan to bargain, ask them how much their best offer is and then quote half the price. Negotiate around the half price mark a few times and show interest in the product, then frown and posture yourself to walk away. Very often they will shout the best price just before you walk away. Bargaining is not common in Malaysia, but it is cultural at Petaling Street. Be warned that goods sold looks like the real thing, feels like the real thing but you can’t be sure.
You can find good dim sum breakfast on Petaling Street. Head towards the end of the canopy walk and there are good dim sum breakfast shops at that end. You may want to peek behind the stalls to look for them. There are many other places for good eats along and around Chinatown. A good indication for good local food would be those that are packed with local Chinese. But be warned, the best places to eat usually are usually a furnace. For a good place for beer in the evening, look out for places with lots of foreigners.
Bring only necessary cash and keep your wallet or handbag safe. It can be very crowded at night. Wear light clothes.
What to see
For a quick tour in the day, if you are from the Chinatown arch, head towards the center along Jalan Petaling. Turn right, down the street on Jalan Hang Lekir. You will pass a row of florist and past Hotel Malaya. At the traffic lights Lee Rubber is a historical building which now houses Popular Bookshop. Turn left along Jalan Tun H S Lee and you will find a Chinese temple (Kwong Siew Temple) of the left and a Hindu temple (Sri Mahamariamman Temple) on the right. To the left of the temple, there is a small smelly alley which is a living market. Walk thru the market and you will be back on Petaling Street.
Near by
The Central market is a stone throw away from Chinatown.
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